We are very much not experts on all that there is to do or see in Paris, but after receiving many recommendations from friends, colleagues, and the IG algorithm, here are our suggestions. Enjoy!
– Kathrine & Jeff
Eats
Robert et Louise: Honestly, the only reason this was on my radar was because Ruth Reichl kept mentioning it in one of her books, A Paris Novel. I’m so glad Jeff and I went. In what’s now a rather posh shopping area, it’s managed to retain a rustic, vintage charm. It’s known for one of the first things you see when you enter: steaks cooked over a big, open wood-burning fireplace. There are stone walls, the food is served on wooden plates, and the menu prices are shockingly cheap – we paid €26 for a 10.5oz sirloin, which also included two sides. 🤯 You might be asked to share a table with another couple, but that’s part of the fun, is it not?
At Robert et Louise.
Le Dauphin: I think this was the only restaurant that we insisted on returning to this trip. Jeff and I initially went because Alison Roman mentioned that it was one of the best sole meunières she had ever had, and I can’t say that I disagree. 10/10.
At Le Dauphin.
Billili: A casual, crowded spot with anything but casual food. Also really nice natural wine options.
Les Arlots: Next door to Billili, and we would have gone here if we hadn’t been able to get into Billili. “An excellent French brasserie.”
Ed’s: A place we wished we had gone but didn’t upon our friend Vincent’s recommendation: “If you're around Montmartre at lunchtime, my friend runs this place. He makes his own bread (including smoked bread) and makes amazing sandwiches. I go there all the time."
Clamato: Seafood restaurant that was modern, inventive, and delicious. We went for birthday dinner on a previous trip with family and our toddler, and they went out of their way to make it a memorable experience.
Aux Deux Amis: Went during the day for their set lunch. Quirky, 70’s, very French.
At Aux Deux Amis.
Pink Mamma: I would usually not recommend a chain restaurant, but this one (and just this location, specifically) is an exception. Very good food, very good vibes, very reasonable prices.
Drinks
Bar Nouveau: Small but cozy with immaculate vibes. Seems more sterile from the outside than it does when you go in. Lovely French music (at least when we went), friendly service, delightful drinks.
At Bar Nouveau.
Classique: This was one of the first places we went on our most recent trip. Recommended by our friend Vincent, one of the founders of Tiptoe. The coziest of vibes in addition to really nice snacks and cocktails.
At Classique.
Folderol: A wine bar with excellent ice cream. We went three times in a week-long trip, lol.
At Folderol.
Fifty - Fifty: We found this tiny spot coincidentally (and thankfully) on our last night, a short walk from where we were staying. Very moody and cozy with interesting cocktails, it’s something I’d expect to find in New York. The bartender was also the owner and made all of his tinctures et cetera himself.
At Fifty - Fifty.
La Chope des Puces: Stumbled upon this hole-in-the-wall jazz bar after spending an afternoon at the Saint-Ouen flea market. We were literally drawn in after hearing the music in the street and desperately in need of a beer, pastis, and restroom after being on our feet all day. What it lacks in modern decor is more than made up for with the vivacious but laid-back atmosphere and wonderful music.
Frenchie Bar à Vins: Another of Vincent’s recs we didn’t make it to, but literally all of his suggestions we did visit were gold.
Oobatz: Supposedly some of the best pizza in Paris. Didn’t go and wish we had.
Maxim’s: Iconic, landmark, art nouveau restaurant with live music. Space/vibes are excellent, but the food was nothing special. If you are looking for a visually stunning space, it fits the bill, but the food doesn’t match the vibe/price, unfortunately.
At Maxim's.
Causeries Paris: a cute, all-day coffee shop/wine bar with a record player.
Coffee
iRASSHAi: A very cute Japanese coffee shop, grocery store, and cafe. It’s right next to the Bourse de Commerce if you plan to go.
The Monocle Café & Shop: If you’re familiar with Monocle, you’ll need no explanation. Surprisingly, though, probably the best dirty chai I’ve ever had.
Art Museums
Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection: A contemporary art museum in a very interesting building with a colorful history. Even if you’re not into contemporary art, the building itself is a nice thing to see.
Shopping
Le Bon Marché: One of those places where you could easily spend an entire day and still not see everything. It’s beautifully designed, the displays are beautifully curated, and music is calming, the lighting is not too much, there are multiple spots to eat or drink inside…it’s kind of like a bougie Disneyland for both foodies and shoppers. Just go. And don’t assume you’ll be out in an hour (or even two).
Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen: There are many flea markets in Paris, but this is the one we visited. It’s huge. It also has more established or permanent vendors, so (from what I hear) you might not be able to bargain as much, but it’s also a little more curated. We were there for half a day and still didn’t see everything, but Jeff got a vintage tweed coat that “has become [his] entire personality.” Note: you will need cash to pay most vendors. There are a few ATM’s in the area, but they will charge high fees in addition to an outlandish exchange rate, so go prepared (unlike us).
Jeff’s new coat.
Erem Vintage: Stumbled upon this nicely-curated vintage shop in an area that was full of many other vintage shops, but few of which were actually very curated or reasonably priced. J
Antoine de Macedo: Jeff is a Watch Guy™️, and if you also identify as such, it’s a lovely shop with friendly service and an impressive collection.
Tiptoe: Not as practical to visit if you’re on vacation (since it’s furniture & homegoods), but it’s our friend’s shop! Go visit! We (perhaps foolishly) made room in our suitcases to bring home a stool, mini shelf, and some wall brackets that we’re very much enjoying.
Uniform
If you go during the warmer months, assume that there won’t be A/C everywhere – especially if you are staying at an AirBNB. If you go during the winter months (like we just did), even though it might be cold outside, it will be WARM inside. Bring layers. I wish that I had brought my heavier coat and lighter layers to wear underneath – almost all of my sweaters were too much to wear indoors. One of my favorite accessories ended up being this triangle scarf from Sézane that I bought while there; it provided plenty of warmth but wasn’t (yet another) bulky accessory to manage while indoors.
Good to Know
Public Transit: While they haven’t simplified the pay-as-you-go model on the metro (like how in New York you can now easily tap to pay with your phone when entering the subway or a bus), you can purchase a digital transit card that lives in your digital wallet and is easy enough to reload as you go. Unless you are going to be taking multiple metro or bus trips in a single day, I’d recommend just paying per ride. You really have to take it a lot to take advantage of the passes. You can take a train from the airport into the city, but it requires a special €14 pass that you can also purchase within your digital wallet.
