This (amazing) guide comes to you courtesy of our friends Sara and Jake, American ex-pats currently living in Rome. I (Kathrine) went to RISD with Sara's older sister, Catherine Furio, and we're still good friends.
We’ve lived in Chicago, Los Angeles, Amsterdam, London and now embracing Rome. You could say that we quite literally worked our way back in chronological order to finally arrive in one of the oldest places one could live. And not only do we live here, we kinda love it! It’s chaotic, completely unorganized, crippled by bureaucracy, which is almost impossible to navigate—but, we love it nonetheless. We are Sara and Jake and work within the film industry. We make movies on this side of the world. I know, tough life. And in our many years living and visiting Rome, we have curated quite the list of go-to spots for the many visitors and now we’d like to share the best of that list with all of you!
eats
Have some self-respect and stay away from the clear tourist traps that surround the major attractions. If someone is out front trying to get you to eat there, it’s almost guaranteed to be gross and overpriced. Try these instead:
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Marzapane - For breakfast, near Piazza del Popolo but not in the chaos, they have more international options if you are craving avocado toast and have overdosed on cornetti.
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Pasticceria Boccione - Located in the Jewish Ghetto, it’s a classic spot for traditional Roman-Jewish pastries. Try the “pizza” that is filled with candied fruits. It might look burnt, but it’s meant to be that way!
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Caffè Bvlgari - Probably one of the best breakfast deals in town if you want a luxurious experience—order a Maritozzo, Rome's most iconic pastry, and a cappuccino and I promise you’ll leave happy! They have a spacious interior, which is rare in Rome, and a beautiful outdoor patio space.
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Pasticceria Regoli - Craving something sweet? Near Piazza Vittorio, you will find this Roman staple. Grab some pastries to go and head over to the park to enjoy some sun and people watching. Don’t forget to ask for a fork and napkins.
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Da Romolo alla Mole Adriana - Cracker thin Roman pizza is always a good idea. Located near the Vatican, grab an early table or make a reservation for some truly simple, but nearly perfect, pizza. You traditionally order one pizza per person but don’t be afraid to get a few to share so you can try the different toppings.
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Spizzica Roma - Roman in-the-pan pizza, a must. You order by the amount you want, not the slice. The dough is rested for 72hrs and is hands-down one of the best casual spots to grab a quick bite of pizza.
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Da Benito e Gilberto - If you like seafood, go here. If you don’t, well, then don’t go here. It’s located near the Vatican, off the charming Borgo Pio. Good for lunch or dinner, but I’d recommend making a reservation! Some will say to go to Pierluigi for your seafood dinner in Rome, and although the ambiance is nice, it’s wildly overpriced.
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La Matriciana dal 1870 - Ya gotta get Carbonara when in Rome, and this is the spot (or the spot for any of the Roman classic dishes). Good for lunch or dinner, plenty of seating, if you arrive before the Romans, otherwise, make a reservation, and great service.
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Trattoria al Moro - I know, I know. We said to stay away from the places near the touristy spots, but this one is different. Near the Trevi Fountain, this is a Roman staple. We recommend getting a bunch of Antipasti (the smaller dishes) to share, and be sure to ask what is in season!
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Finger’s - It happens. You may need a break from indulging in Italian food, but it’s rare to find good food that is not Italian. Japanese fusion done right, this is a nice treat if you’re looking for some new flavors!
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Ciampini Roma - Located in Piazza San Lorenzo, it’s the ideal spot for a Gelato. Most will say go to Giolitti, but don’t waste your time—this is the best Gelato in Rome and you don’t have to deal with the lines.
drinks
Yes, there are traditional cocktail bars and trendy spots, but let’s be honest: you aren’t in Rome to go to a bar that feels like you are in London. Here are some local sports to grab an Aperitivo:
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Achilli al Parlamento - If you like wine, this is the spot. Thousands and thousands of bottles of wine and fantastic staff who will help you find the ideal bottle to share with friends. No beer, no cocktails, just wine. Their food is also fantastic! It’s a Michelin-starred restaurant where, at lunch, you can order whatever fresh dishes they have that day, or at dinner, you can indulge in a tasting menu.
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Ristorante Camponeschi - Next to this fine dining establishment is a bar where all the bougie Romans go for a spritz or cocktail. It can get a bit busy, but you'll be fine if you go early enough or you can just wait a bit!
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Bar Locarno - As a Negroni enthusiast, I (Jake) am always on the hunt for the perfect one, and after sampling hundreds (all in the name of science), I’m convinced that the bar inside Hotel Locarno serves one of the best Negronis in Rome. They also offer all the classic cocktails! Depending on the season, you can enjoy your drink by a cozy fire, in a charming courtyard, or on their laid-back rooftop. And if you’re hungry, they’ve got the best club sandwich in the city.
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Salotto 42 - If it’s nice out, in Piazza di Pietra with the backdrop of the Temple of Hadrian, this is a great spot to grab a speciality cocktail and enjoy the scenery. It can get a bit hectic so if there are no tables outside, don’t bother sitting inside, as the beauty of this spot is the ability to enjoy the sun with your drink!
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Tre in Lucina - Spritz under the sun and in a piazza. That’s what it’s all about. In Piazza San Lorenzo, right off Via del Corso, you can enjoy a few spritz before heading back to shopping in the area.
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Zuma - A stone throw away from Via Condotti (the high-end shopping street), this Japanese Fusion spot is the spot all the Roman celebrities go for their cocktails, especially during the summer—the rooftop is fantastic and it’s well worth the price.
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Bar San Calisto - In the heart of Trastevere, this is a classic: cheap Peronis, live outdoor music, hoards of locals, and a good vibe. Order with the cashier, go to the bar, take your drink, and enjoy the scene.
coffee
Coffee in Italy is provincial and protected. Each region, each city, has a certain way that they prepare their espresso. In Rome, the espresso is going to be more bitter and a bit harsh. Don’t expect any fruit or chocolate notes, just intense coffee flavors. Also, coffee to-go really isn’t part of the culture here. Yes, you can do it. But only at the spots that cater to tourist. Be a local, saddle up to the bar and have your drink the Romans!
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RetroVino - In the center of Rome, this is a more modern take on the classic Roman coffee. Skip the pastries and indulge in a few speciality coffees before heading out to see the sights. Or by all means, have a glass of natural wine. You’re on vacation so there is no shame.
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Cafe Peru - A vintage vibe. Everything you expect in a Roman bar (quick note, a “bar” in Rome is a cafe that sells both coffee and alcohol). Come early to get a warm cornetto with cream and sit at the high-top tables near the coffee bar.
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Bar Amore - The classic bar you walk by in the morning and see all the Italians having a coffee at the counter is a great way to get the local experience. It may be a bit hectic, but embrace the chaos!
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Caffè Doria - You want a posh Italian bistro inside a palazzo with historic paintings & a fountain? Look no further. It’s a great place to get an afternoon tea and a pastry from the famed Le Levain bakery. Or have a cocktail in their courtyard as the sun starts to go down because the lighting will be stunning. Oh and if you’re craving more art, go upstairs to visit Galleria Doria Pamphilj.
hotels
Location, location, location. It’s worth the extra money to be central in Rome as the last thing you want to do at the end of a long day is to try and find a taxi for a traffic filled drive back to your hotel. Also, for Soho House members, this is for you —the Soho House in Rome is NOT in a great location. You may be tempted, but you’ll end up having to take a taxi pretty much anywhere you will want to go. Also, Rome has seven hills that incorporate the city, so finding one in the flats (Centro Storico) is a life saver.
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The Elizabeth Unique Hotel - Located off of Via del Corso, this boutique hotel is our go-to recommendation for people looking for hotels thanks to the ideal location great staff. To note, this is also a Bonvoy Hotel so get those Marriott points!
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The JK Place - Part of the Leading Hotels of the World chain, this is definitely a bit more high-end. Centrally located with great ambiance, it’s a great option for those OK spending a bit more on their hotel.
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G-Rough - Located near Piazza Navona, this Bonvoy hotel is definitely a vibe. Upscale rustic feel with unique rooms, this is a fun options if you want something a bit more youthful.
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CitizenM - If you haven’t stayed at a CitizenM, check them out! Everything you need and nothing you don’t. The rooms are small (by design) and they are all the same. It has a nice co-working space and is located near the Jewish Ghetto across the river from Trastevere.
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Palazzo Dama - If you are here during the summer, a pool may be a necessity. Palazzo Dama is one of the few hotels that has a decent size pool with good vibes. They have a great Peruvian restaurant as well and the location is convenient. It might be a bit pricey, but if you want some R+R in between the sightseeing, this is the spot.
art museums
Rome is a museum. “Just look up” is a saying our Roman friends often tell us because there is art and beauty in everything. Go and enjoy some of the museums but ultimately just get lost and marvel at the architecture, fountains, and the ‘Madonnelle’ aka ‘Little Madonnas’ shrines on every other street corner! That’s our favorite thing to do.
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Capitoline Museums - Behind Piazza Venezia and near the Collesueum, this is the oldest public museum in Italy. It is a great collection of classic works and a great stop as you explore the Roman Forum.
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Centrale Montemartini - Located in Rome’s first public power plant, this is a unique and different experience. With marble statues and busts placed within the industrial feel of the decommissioned power plant, it’s a great hidden gem. The area is also very local and a great spot for a local lunch or drink.
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The Vatican Museum - Obviously, this will make the list, and rightfully so. The best way to do this is to book a private or semi-private tour. Go for the earliest available option. Make sure you are wearing modest clothes (yes, it’s true; if your shoulders aren’t covered or your shorts/skit is too short, you won’t be able to go into the Sistine Chapel or St. Pauls Basilica.) Then, book a reservation at a nearby restaurant like Da Benito e Gilberto or Da Romolo alla Mole Adriana for an early lunch when you finish.
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There are more than 930 churches in Rome. You can enter nearly all of them. Do some research like which ones have Caravaggio painting on display, map your way to San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo’s Moses, light up the incredible illusionistic frescoes of Sant'Ignazio or simply pop into one while on a stroll. Each a bit different, it’s a great way to get a bit of culture in between the Sprtiz.
performing arts
This isn’t Vienna or London. Street performers and local musicians playing in the piazza will be the best form of music you’ll get here.
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For a memorable experience, visit the churches around Rome—many host free concerts in truly enchanting settings. And don’t miss the Baths of Caracalla, a stunning archaeological site that transforms into an open-air venue for operas, ballets, and concerts each summer. Just be sure to get tickets for a main-stage event, as performances there, framed by the ruins, offer an atmosphere unmatched by the smaller side stages.
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Or in Piazza Trilusa, in the Trastevere neighborhood, nearly every night, they have live music right in the piazza. Grab some beers and some pizza and enjoy the music!
parks
There are plenty of options to get some green in Rome, but most of them are a bit “wild.” A bit overgrown and unkempt, there is beauty in the rustic aspect of the parks here. The nice thing is that they all mostly have cafes or bars to grab a drink and enjoy the views.
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Villa Borghese - Rome’s “Central Park” is the biggest and most popular park. Located above Piazza del Polpolo, it’s massive and has paved walkways, museums, and cafes! It can get a bit hectic on the weekends but is always a good time.
Villa Ada - Located behind Villa Borghese, this is where the locals go for a nice stroll. A bit more wild, it allows for a more local experience and will get you out of the center to see other parts of Rome.
Appia Antica - This is more of an area than a park. It includes the old Roman Road (ya know, the one from “All Roads lead to Rome”) and includes the ancient Aquaducts, there’s so much to explore. Do your research of what part of the park you want to experience as it’s too big to see all of it at once! Oh and in the morning, you can see sheep grazing and shepards keeping a watch.
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Parco Savello - Commonly known as the “Orange Garden” this park on top of Aventine Hill gives you a stunning view of Rome. Take a taxi to the top and then casually stroll down to explore some of the nearby attractions. When up there, head over to the “Roman Keyhole” to peep inside an ancient door with its forced perspective giving you a truly unique view of Rome.
shopping
If you want it, Rome has it. So many unique boutiques and vintage stores, shopping in Rome is always a good time. Our one tip though is if you want a designer product (Gucci, Prada, LV, etc.) take advantage of the FCO airport if your flight is leaving the EU! They have nearly every designer store you can imagine and you get the full 22% tax-free option. For example, if you buy a Prada bag in Rome, you’ll get around 13% tax-free, in the airport, you get the full 22%. Find the product you want and then give the store in the airport a call and see if they have it and pick it up before your flight home.
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Schostal dal 1870 - Known for their pajamas, this spot is frequented by all the international celebrities who come to Rome. They have great linen and cotton dress shirts, but splurge on a fun pajama set that you can easily wear outside of the house. If you go, tell Shirley that Latte (our dog) sent you… she’ll love it!
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NIA Outlet - NIA is a boutique in the heart of Rome that has some truly unique womenswear pieces. But, around the corner is their outlet where you can get a great deal on clothes, shoes and accessories.
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Strategic Business Unit - For menswear, this shop near Piazza Navona has great staples with a classic design. You can get pretty much anything you need here for a classic Italian look in jeans, pants, shirts, and sweaters.
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Monocle - Sunglasses are a must in Rome. Monocle has a great selection of boutique brands to choose from. They also have eyeglasses if you are in the market for some new frames. Carmen, the sales associate, is originally from Texas and is always happy to help!
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Campomarzio70 - With a few locations around the center of Rome, this will be your spot if you are in the market for a new fragrance.
playlist
In lieu of a playlist, open up Spotify or Apple Music and search for “Lucio Dalla,” “Mina,” or “Pino Daniele” and hit play. Classic Italian music is our go-to when we need a chill vibe to get us into the Italian state of mind.
uniform
Keep it simple. I know you’ll want to get all dressed up, but you can easily look sleek and hip with a very basic wardrobe for your trip. Ladies, avoid heels! The Sampietrini, Roman cobblestone, will make it nearly impossible for you to walk. Also, try your hardest not to overpack. It can be a pain in the ass to drag luggage through the tiny streets and you might be staying at an Airbnb without an elevator. If you need something you forgot, you’ll easily find it here!
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New Balance 990v2 - sturdy walking shoes are key. Don’t bother with heels or “cute” shoes, you can dress up a pair of sneakers for most of what you need when in Rome. Avoid any shoes with big/tall soles (like Hokas) as the combination of them and the cobblestones = many sprained ankles. And please, flip-flops are for the beach ONLY. Don’t be that tourist.
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Romans are more casual than their Fiorentini and Milanese neighbors to the north. A nice pair of pants with a sweater in the fall or a linen shirt and shorts in the summer is all you need.
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For a jacket, K-Way is the way to go. They offer lightweight and packable solutions and make for an excellent gift to take home to remember your trip to Rome.
good to know
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If you listen to one thing from this guide, let it be this: go to the main tourist attractions as early as possible. I know you’ll be jetlagged and tired, but it makes the experience much more enjoyable. For the Vatican, do the first guided tour in the morning. You are the first one, and you have the place for yourself (well, not really, but you know what I mean). The Trevi Fountain or the Colosseum in the morning is truly a different experience than in the middle of the day when they are packed with thousands and thousands of people.
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On that note, you’ll see Golf Cart Tours all the time in Rome. You’ll laugh or think it’s cheesy, but honestly, it’s a fantastic way to see all the sites and save some of your energy. If you get a private tour you can ask your guide to show you the hidden gems of Rome and it allows you to get to the more distant attractions without wasting time walking or in a taxi. Also, you can get out and explore a bit at each site. They aren’t wildly expensive and are very much worth the experience.
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Pace yourself not just for sightseeing but also for your meals and drinks. Get a plate of pasta to share at one spot, then take a stroll and grab some pizza at another. Too often people gorge themselves on one gigantic meal at one restaurant but miss out on trying new and different places. Do as the Romans do - slow down!
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I know, you’re excited. But be mindful that it's for all to enjoy when in a shared space, like in a piazza. Have fun, laugh, and talk—but be mindful of how much “space” you take up. Not just physically but also with how loud you are speaking to one another. Also, those charming streets you wander through at night to get back to your hotel aren’t just there for the charm of it; people live on them! So, as one of those people who live on a charming street, I beg you to please be mindful of how loud you are being!
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Romans are some of the nicest people and as a whole, Rome is a pretty safe city. But like all major cities, be super mindful of your personal belongings. Keep your purse wrapped around the chair in your eye-site and your phone in your front pocket. Leave the Louis Vuitton at home, and if you have a luxury watch, switch it up for something a bit less flashy for the trip. You might think, “It won’t happen to me,” but trust us, it very much could happen to you.
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Lastly, feel free to ignore this entire guide. Do whatever the hell you want to do. This is your trip. If you want to wear flip-flops and order a cappuccino after your meal, go for it. Yes, people will judge you, but life's too short to care about that shit. With that being said, don’t order a coffee and spritz at the same time!